How to replace iPhone X Battery Replacement Guide
- Pentalobe screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Metal spatula
- Plastic spatula
- Suction cup
Preface
Use the following picture guide to easily change the battery on your iPhone.
You should make a backup of your iPhone before changing the display and then turn it off.
Step 1: Remove Pentalobe screws
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
Step 2: Open display
If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Step 3: Detach display from frame
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.
Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.
Step 4: Remove cover
Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
Three 1.1 mm screws
One 3.1 mm screw
One 3.7 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
Step 5: Detach connectors
Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
Step 6: Remove the Lower Speaker
Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone.
Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
One Y000 1.2 mm screw
One Y000 1.6 mm screw
One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
One Phillips 1.5 mm screw
Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to remove it fully, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.
While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.
Remove the bracket.
Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.
When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, hold it to one side so the speaker has room to come out.
Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.
Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.
When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath the speaker.
Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.
Remove the speaker.
The speaker's gasket is not reusable. During reassembly, follow this step to replace the gasket.
Use tweezers to peel off and remove all the old gasket from the frame and speaker.
Use a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol to clean all the gasket's adhesive residue from the frame and speaker.
Before installing the speaker gasket, find its proper orientation on the bottom of the speaker—the large cutout on the gasket should go around the speaker grille mesh.
Remove the larger, clear liner from the gasket and use tweezers to carefully put the gasket into place on the bottom of the speaker.
To avoid touching the exposed adhesive, only grip the gasket by the outer edges of the liner.
Use your fingers or a spudger to firmly press the gasket into place to secure it with the adhesive.
Remove the remaining liner and put the speaker into place, making sure the speaker connector doesn't get stuck underneath.
Step 7: Remove the Taptic Engine
Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.
Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
Remove the Taptic Engine.
Step 8: Remove the battery adhesive
The iPhone X's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.
Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you're having trouble grabbing hold of the tab.
Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.
Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.
In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease.
If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.
To increase your odds of success:
Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.
Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.
Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.
The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care.
Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.
Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.
The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure it—but don't press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery.
If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.
For alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case, continue to the next step below.
If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.
Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.
Step 9: Remove the battery
Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery does not come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.